• Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

Vegetable Gardening Ideas

Learn How to Vegetable Garden

  • Vegetable Growing Instructions
    • How to Grow Peas
    • How to Grow Lettuce
    • How to Grow Hot Peppers
    • How to Grow Onions
    • How to Grow Summer Squash
    • How to Grow Carrots
    • How to Grow Beans
    • How to Grow Sweet Peppers
    • How to Grow Cucumbers
    • How to Grow Tomatoes
  • 21 Easy Vegetables to Grow
  • 5 Tips For Vegetable Gardening Success
You are here: Home / Archives for seedlings

seedlings

Seed Starting: 5 Tips for Beginner Gardeners

March 10, 2010 by Vegetable7 1 Comment

Seed starting: 5 tips for beginner success

Gardening can be the most satisfying hobby in the world, resulting in beauty, food, and a keen sense of satisfaction. Plug a seed in some dirt and nature performs a miracle. In the beginning, a gardener can feel overwhelmed by the complexities of gardening manuals, so it’s best to start simply and learn by trial and error.

A few simple tips for starting seeds indoors will boost the beginning gardener’s success rate and confidence.

1. Use a Seed Starting Mix.

Gardening on a budget might lead you to take some short cuts. So you fill your saved yogurt and margarine plastic containers and fill them with dirt you dug up from the back yard. Cost: $0.00 so far! The spendthrift in you is standing up and cheering.

Don’t get too excited yet, because while this experiment in frugality could work, you would be better off springing for a bag of artificial seed starting mix. Let’s explore what will happen if you go the “thrifty” route:

* The soil you dug up is denser than a bag of potting soil, making it more difficult for the seed to get the oxygen it needs. You could mix in some peat or sand to lighten it up, but…

* The soil has other seeds in it from past seasons, dormant and ready for the right conditions, which you are about to provide. As a beginner, how will you know that your seedling is really an eggplant and not a poke-berry? Even a seed packet’s identifying picture can be remarkably similar to weeds.

* Insect eggs that hatch and eat tender vegetation, fungi, and other soil-borne problems will only cause trouble.

A seed-starting mix is recommended for starting seeds indoors. Avoid potting soils with fertilizers – these are meant for older plants and may do more harm than good for your purposes. A seed starting mix has a small amount of fertilizer, enough to get you started.

2. Pass on old seeds.

Seeds lose their viability as they age; the older they become, the less viable (likely to sprout) they are. In general, you want fresh seeds, preferably from last summer, but no older than four years. For best results, buy seeds from a company who offers a guarantee.

Before you plant anything, test seed viability: Place at least ten of one kind on a slightly damp paper towel. Fold it over and seal in a Ziploc bag. Put the bag in a warm place away from direct sunlight, then check it every day to watch for germination and lightly spritz if it becomes too dry. Some types of seeds take longer to sprout than others, but once the first seeds of a batch sprout, others should follow within days. What you want is a good ratio of germination – at least 7 should sprout of the 10.

Don’t expect too much from saved seeds of produce you bought from the grocery store. Most produce sold in supermarkets are hybrid varieties whose seeds are infertile or will not reproduce the exact same fruit. If you save seeds from any “heirloom” produce, however, you can expect to grow the exact same specimen in your garden.

seed sprouting

3. Don’t overwater.

Before you plant the seeds in the seed starting mix, moisten the mix with water to reach the right amount of moisture: damp, but not too soggy. That way you can plant the seeds exactly as the instructions say without disturbing them later with watering. Seeds need to be in contact with moisture in order to germinate, but too much water will kill your efforts.

To maintain the right level of moisture, cover the pots after planting with a sheet of clear plastic. The covering should not be sealed tight. You have many choices for containers – saved Styrofoam and yogurt cups work equally well as a seedling flat from the store, so long as you poke holes in the bottoms of the cups to give adequate drainage. You can even save fast-food salad containers with the clear plastic covering, but drill plenty of holes in the top and bottom, otherwise the seedlings will cook and drown.

Watering is only necessary when the soil is visibly dry and the seedlings are about to wilt. Some gardeners like to keep peat seedling pots in a tray for watering from the bottom up. They put the water in the tray, wait for the peat pots to soak up enough water so the top soil is moistened, then they drain the extra.

4. Avoid leggy situations.

Once the seedling puts its head above the earth, light is as important as warmth. The ideal temperature depends on what you are growing, but all plants need adequate light to grow. The new sprouts will grow quickly toward the light, and if it’s not bright enough, the stems will elongate in an unhealthy way. That leggy situation is best avoided by providing light. You could get by with placing plants near a south-facing window.

Other options are to build an outdoor cold frame, or rig up a shop-style fluorescent light fixture over the plants, positioned inches above the leaves of the plants. These last options aren’t easy, but will result in healthier seedlings.

For that reason, it’s best to strategize planting times so that the seedlings are just about adequate for transferring outdoors when the temperatures will support them. Starting seeds too early will require you to “pot up” – or transfer seedlings to larger pots to accommodate root systems and allow for growth. If your seedlings become leggier than they should, you can pot-up, planting the seedling to bury most of the stem as well. Or, start a second batch.

5. Don’t shock the seedlings.

“Hardening off” is the process of acclimating the seedlings to their new turf outdoors without shocking the young plants, which can either cause a setback, cessation of growth, or death. When the temperatures outside are mild enough for the plant you are growing, begin the transfer by putting the seedlings outside for increasing amounts of daylight hours, then bring them back inside at night. Seedlings begun indoors are accustomed to a sheltered environment, so to begin with they need just a few hours of outdoor conditions, protected from wind and direct sunlight.

Over the next few weeks, increase their exposure to direct sunlight, wind, and rain as you gradually decrease watering. If you’re using a cold frame, simply open the frame for increasing periods of time. This stage of gardening can be time-intensive, requiring attention to temperatures day and night to prevent frozen plants when the temperatures dip, but will ensure a better transition and a healthier start for your plants. When the plants have spent an entire day and night outdoors, they are ready to plant in prepared garden beds.

Of course, you don’t have to start your seeds indoors. You can wait until the weather is warmer, or purchase seedlings from a nursery. Still, this aspect of gardening gives you much more versatility in what you can grow and when it will bear fruit. If you’re new to gardening, don’t let the science scare you away. This is one hobby that allows a lot of flexibility and room for error. With these few tips, you can proceed with confidence, dig your hands in the dirt, and experience the miracles of nature.

5 seed starting tips for beginners

Filed Under: Gardening for Beginners Tagged With: planting seeds, seedling, seedlings, starting seed, starting seeds

Growing Vegetables from Seed

February 23, 2010 by Vegetable7 1 Comment

vegetable plant seedling

Whether you start off inside or out, growing your own vegetables from seed is an immensely satisfying process. While you can of course buy established plants and nurture them to full growth, some gardeners believe the only true way to grow vegetables is to start off at the very beginning. This takes a degree of dedication, but the rewards are huge.

So where do you to start if you’ve never attempted the process before? Below are some of the more common questions about growing vegetables from seed.

Q. Is it easier to grow vegetables if you sow the seeds indoors or outdoors?

A. It all depends on which vegetables you want to grow, when you want to start, and where in the world you live. Plants sown indoors will eventually have to be transplanted outdoors, and unless you sow your seeds in biodegradable plant pots, so that both pot and plant can be transplanted into the ground, the plant will suffer some degree of root disturbance.

Vegetables such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, eggplant, leeks, onions, peppers, and tomatoes tolerate root disturbance better than other vegetables and benefit from an early start in the growing season – which is another reason to start sowing seeds indoors.

In some parts of the world, the growing season is relatively short, so if you want to make the most of it, it’s best to sow seeds indoors. This way your vegetables will be well established and on their way to yielding when the growing season’s at its peak. Furthermore, with hard-to-germinate (sprout) seeds, sowing indoors gives you a better chance of providing the right environment for the seeds to germinate (e.g. temperature, light).

Q. What do I need to sow seeds indoors?

A. The size of the seeds will determine the size of the container you sow them in. Most gardeners sow their seeds in seed raising trays, but you can use a variety of containers including egg boxes and the bottom halves of juice cartons (pierce a hole in the bottom for drainage). Whatever you use, make sure it’s deep enough to enable the seedling to develop a good root system before being transplanted outside. Plant bigger seeds one to a cell, and smaller seeds two or three to a cell.

Once you’ve planted your seeds, sprinkle with a thin layer of soil, and give them a thorough watering, taking care not to wash them away. Place your seeds in a warm position with good light but out of direct sunlight. To minimize disturbance, you can water your seeds using a spray bottle with a mister attachment.

It’s important to keep your seeds well watered so they don’t dry out. Placing a sheet of cellophane over the seeds once they’ve been watered will help trap moisture. Once the seeds germinate remove the cellophane.

Remember that while you may be eager to start sowing, if you begin too soon the soil outside may not have warmed up sufficiently to accommodate your seedlings when it’s time for them to be transplanted out. If in doubt, refer to the instructions on the seed packet for general guidance as to when you should start sowing.

Q. What do I do when they’re ready to be moved outdoors?

A. When transplanting seedlings that have been grown indoors to the great outdoors, you have to acclimatize them to their new environment. This is called “hardening off.” With the seedlings still in their pots, place them in a protected area with indirect light for a few days. If frost is forecast, bring them indoors overnight. Shade-loving plants can be planted out after a few more days of being outside.

If your plants are destined for a spot that will receive full sun, give them a few more days in the shade, and then place them in the sun for an hour on the first day, gradually increasing their exposure to the sun each day for about a week, and then plant in the ground.

Q. And how do I transplant them into the ground?

A. If you’ve sown your seeds in biodegradable pots, you can transplant both pot and seedling: gently tear the pots down the sides to allow the roots to push through before placing in the ground. Also remove the top of the pot to prevent it sucking moisture from the soil.

If possible, transplant your seedlings on a cloudy day, or late in the afternoon. It can take them a little while to adjust after having been transplanted, so it’s best if they don’t also have to contend with the sun when it’s at its hottest.

Q. I’m not sure I can be bothered with starting my vegetables off indoors. Which ones are best for planting outdoors?

A. If you want to sow seeds directly in your garden or containers outside, then most root crops (beets, turnips, parsnips, and carrots) can be started off relatively early outdoors. In addition, crops such as beans, peas, and corn don’t like to be transplanted, so if you want to grow these vegetables, you’re better off planting them directly in the soil outside.

Q. How early in the year can I start sowing seeds directly outdoors in the ground?

A. This depends on where you live. While most seed packets give recommended sowing times, you should always check that the soil in your garden is ready. If the soil isn’t warm enough (above 65°F), the seeds are likely to rot in the ground before germinating.

You can use a soil thermometer, which you can buy at a garden store or online, to check the temperature of the soil. If the soil’s too cold and hard or water-logged, then you’ll either have to wait a while or consider sowing indoors. Once the soil’s ready, dig it over, breaking up any lumps with a garden fork, and rake it until it’s fine and crumbly.

Q. Where exactly do I put the seeds?

A. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the seed, the deeper it should be planted. Larger seeds, such as beans, can be planted individually, while smaller seeds (e.g. beets, cucumber) can be planted two to three seeds per hole. Refer to the instructions on the seed packet for information on how deep and how far apart from one another the seeds should be planted. Or check a seed planting chart.

Q. What do I need to do when the seeds start sprouting?

A. Regardless of whether you’ve sown your seeds indoors or outdoors, once the seedlings emerge and are an inch or so high, you will need to thin them out (if you’ve sown more than one seed per pot or position in the ground). Thinning out leaves enough room for those plants left behind to grow to their full potential.

There are generally two ways in which to thin out: For smaller, delicate seedlings, gently remove the weaker looking seedlings by cutting the stem at the point at which it meets the soil and then discard. For sturdier seedlings, very gently remove them all from the soil, separate them using a pencil, taking care not to touch their roots, and then re-plant in individual positions in the ground.

You may also need to “pinch back” (pinch off with your fingernails) the plant’s second set of true leaves. The first set of leaves a plant produces are called seed leaves, which are then followed by true leaves. Pinching back encourages bushy growth along the plant’s branches.

However, gardeners are divided as to whether it’s necessary to pinch back the leaves on vegetable seedlings, so you may need to find out what works for you. Remember that growing any plant from seed is a case of trial and error, so don’t expect to get it right first time.

Remember to lavish lots of tender loving care (including water) on your seedlings, and then look forward to harvesting a bumper crop of wonderful tasting vegetables in the months to come.

Want to learn more about growing vegetables from seed?

You Grow Girl has a great guide to starting vegetables from seed for beginner gardeners.

The University of Missouri Extension shows you how to start a vegetable garden from seed, in great detail. From choosing seeds to soil mixes and containers. It’s all there!

Filed Under: Vegetable Gardening Tagged With: planting, seed, seedlings, seeds

How to thin seedling plants

May 2, 2009 by Vegetable7 Leave a Comment

Seedlings can be very susceptible to slugs, so you’ll want to be careful to get rid of any slugs that might otherwise devour your garden. The video recommends a safe, organic slug killer. But if you can’t find that locally, you can also use a flat tray filled with beer, which attracts the slugs inside and then drowns them.

Once your seedling plants start growing, you’ll need to go through and thin them out so that they have at least a couple of inches on each side of the seedling. It seems mean to pull up the other plants, but if you don’t, you’ll end up with plants that are so crowded that they will die out and not succeed.

You’ll also see early weeds at the beginning of the season with your garden. Pull them out by hand, or chop through the roots with a hoe or other weeding tool so that they don’t immediately grow back.

Filed Under: Gardening for Beginners Tagged With: seedlings, slugs, weeds

Primary Sidebar

Popular Posts

  • Why Grow a Vegetable Garden?
  • How to Grow Onions
  • How to Grow Cucumbers
  • How to Grow Lettuce

Vegetable Gardening

  • About
  • Growing Vegetables Indoors
  • Organic Vegetable Gardening
  • Vegetable Gardening Tips
  • Victory Gardens
  • Why Grow a Vegetable Garden?
  • Planning Your Vegetable Garden
  • Seed starting at home: getting a head start
  • Buying Starter Plants
  • Container Vegetable Gardening
  • Edible Landscapes
  • Hydroponic Gardening
  • Intensive Gardening
  • No Till Gardening
  • Perennial Crops- The Gift that Keeps on Giving
  • Permaculture Design
  • Raised Bed Gardening
  • Square Foot Gardening
  • Garden Pests and Plant Disease
  • Garden Weeds
  • Fertilizing the Garden
  • Watering the Garden
  • Vegetable Growing Instructions
    • How to Grow Tomatoes
    • How to Grow Cucumbers
    • How to Grow Sweet Peppers
    • How to Grow Beans
    • How to Grow Carrots
    • How to Grow Summer Squash
    • How to Grow Onions
    • How to Grow Hot Peppers
    • How to Grow Lettuce
    • How to Grow Peas
  • Vegetable Gardening Products
  • Got Vegetable Gardening Questions?

Categories

  • Gardening for Beginners
  • Vegetable Gardening

Copyright © 2023 · Foodie Pro Theme by Shay Bocks · Built on the Genesis Framework · Powered by WordPress